Skiing Purgatory Resort In the San Juan Mountains

by Samuel Spencer on Jan 27, 2024

Photo by Andy Brazil on Unsplash

 

TL: DR – In this article, I will be covering my journey to Purgatory Resort, what the ski area has to offer, the town of Durango and the Durango Hot Springs, and my overall experience as an enthusiastic snowboarder and traveler. 


HEY-OH and welcome to this edition of Outdoor Master Adventures! (copyright pending…jk) 


Every once in a while we take awesome journeys, showcasing incredible places, people, and adventures relating to the outdoors. I had the pleasure of visiting Purgatory Resort in Durango, Colorado. I’ve visited Colorado countless times, but have never traveled so far South! Durango is located just North of New Mexico and at the base of the San Juan mountains. These mountains often get overshadowed by the Colorado Rockies, but had I known their beauty existed previously, I would have visited long before this.


The San Juan mountain range is home to numerous rugged, volcanic peaks stretching into the sky. Situated on the Continental Divide, the San Juan mountains stretch for over 12,000 square miles and feature some of the most incredible views, wildlife, and hiking locations in all of America. These breathtaking mountains feature numerous ski areas such as Wolf Creek, Telluride, and Purgatory Resort.

From Tampa to Southern Colorado

I live in the Sunshine State, Florida, which is very warm and quite far from Colorado. Thankfully, a flight from Tampa to Denver only lasts about 3 hours. I packed my snowboard, jacket, pants, goggles, gloves, boots, and headphones into my Outdoor Master Snowboard Bag and sallied forth toward colorful Colorado.


After a short wait in Denver, my companions picked me up and we made our way to Purgatory. Now, Purgatory is a bit different than most ski destinations in Colorado. For starters, it’s pretty far away. While Keystone, Loveland Ski Area, and A-Basin are roughly an hour and a half from Denver, Purgatory is a whopping 7 hours. Fortunately, I like driving and we packed lots of delicious snacks.

Photo by Cole Marshall on Unsplash

 

7 hours of driving in Colorado is easy. I enjoy gazing at the mountains, staring at bison, and stopping to pee in the middle of nowhere. Driving through the San Juan Mountain was like nothing I have ever experienced in my life. The mountains themselves are made of mineral-rich rocks, which makes the landscape vary in beautiful colors (largely red, yellow, and orange).


Here is how long it would take from other destinations:

  • Durango, CO: 25 miles / 30 mins
  • Durango-La Plata County Airport: 40 miles / 55 mins
  • Montrose Regional Airport: 83 miles / 2 hours
  • Denver, CO: 370 miles / 7 hours
  • Albuquerque, NM: 240 miles / 4 hours

Purgatory Resort: “Close to Heaven, Fun as Hell”

@ChristianRidings – Purgatory Media


If you like tree skiing, then you’ll love Purgatory. Although I ride a snowboard, I love to dodge and duck through the trees. Virtually every run is surrounded by trees with plenty of fun little alleyways and side hits for those who like to get air. At Purgatory, you can expect a surprising amount of open space. While it may not seem like it from the resort’s main foyer at the base of the mountain, Purg’s 1,600 skiable acres are spread across its meager frontside and its expansive backside.


Visitors can ski for as cheap as $9. Seriously, on select dates, visitors can ski for $9. Typically, lift ticket prices are below $100, which makes Purgatory one of the most affordable ski areas in the United States. Check out lift tickets here.


Purgatory has 11 lifts that serve 107 trails ranging from beginner to advanced/expert. With an annual snowfall of about 260 inches, skiers and snowboarding can cruise comfortably on groomers and enjoy the occasion powder day. With a vertical drop of 2,072 feet, Purgatory is flat in all the right places, and steep enough for advanced visitors to test their limits.


20% of the mountain is dedicated to green/beginner runs, which is great for kids because youngsters under the age of 12 always ski FREE. 45% of the mountain is dedicated to blue/intermediate runs, which is perfect for snowboarders and seasoned tourists. The last 35% of the resort is dedicated to black/expert runs. With plenty of trees, moguls, drops, and steeps, expert skiers and snowboarders can strut their stuff.


Additionally, there are 4 terrain parks for those who like doing tricks.

Day 1 On the Slopes

On the first day of our ski trip, the sun was shining and the weather was surprisingly warm for mid-January. We grabbed our gear and made our way to the base of the mountain. I got my board waxed at one of the mountain shops and then I was ready to go. I strapped into my Capita DOA and made for the closest chairlift. The first two lifts on the front side can get a little bit congested since they are the only way to get to the backside. That said, once you take them up and can access other lifts, there are basically no more waits.


The warm morning conditions all but melted the ice hiding in the shadows, which made carving Purgatory’s snow an absolute delight. Like I said before, Purgy has a surprising amount of space. With 107 trails, I felt as though there was so much to explore. Some of the trails are quite narrow, though, and with trails merging left and right, it was oftentimes disorienting. However, there are tons of signs and the mountain is maintained incredibly well, so I had no issues getting around.

The first day was spent exploring the whole of the resort and finding my favorite places to ride. I’m somewhat of a park rat, so I spent a lot of time hitting jumps and doing tricks. I took my fair share of slams, too. Check out this pic of me eating snow!


We closed out our first day of skiing/snowboarding with some epic park laps, hitting the backside of the mountain one more time before we retired for the night.

Day 2 On the Slopes

On our second day, we woke up to find the resort caught in a deluge of snow, coating the slopes in a fresh layer of powder. We layered up and I made sure to replace my OM Falcon Zeiss lens with a clearer one so I could see better on the dim-lit mountain.


Our second day was much like the first, full of skiing and snowboarding in open areas and exploring trails we had not yet seen. The fresh pow was a delightful surprise and a relief for our muscles which were made sore from the previous day. We spent most of the day exploring the backside of the mountain, where the crowds are less dense and the terrain more difficult. While I am not the biggest fan of moguls, there were some spectacular runs designed for expert skiers to test their limits on the steep inclines and bumpy moguls.

@ChristianRidings – Purgatory Media


We took a much-needed break at the resort’s rest area, where there is lots of seating, great food, and well-priced drinks for those enjoying Purgatoty’s apres skiing. There are also plenty of shops, food options, and accommodation within walking distance of the slopes.


It was a bit colder than the day before, which is why I was happy I packed my Phoozy phone capsule. The capsule’s Chromium Thermal Barrier ensures my phone stays protected from the harsh conditions of the mountain. Additionally, the capsule’s material helps protect my phone from impact such as falls or drops.


Purgatory has an excellent atmosphere that I have not experienced at other ski resorts in Colorado. The slopes seemed to have more locals than tourists, and the resort seemed more catered toward those who live in Durango than those coming from far away. I appreciated this because I felt less like an outsider and more like a local simply trying to enjoy the mountains.


We ended our second day by driving down to Durango to eat at Balcony Bar & Grille, where I had one of the best burgers I have ever had in my life.

The Durango Hot Springs Resort and Spa

Winter Cold Plunge Pool - Courtesy of Durango Hot Springs


After dinner, my friends and I had the pleasure of soaking in the Durango Hot Springs. It was the perfect way to end the day, rest our sore muscles, and relax. It might feel crowded, but with tons of hot pools to choose from, visitors usually get one all to themselves.


The hot spring’s geothermal waters date back to 1000-1200 A.D. The springs contain 32 minerals found in the human body and do not have that generic sulfur smell that is found at most hot springs. There are two cold-plunge pools for those looking for contrast therapy. With an on-site massage therapist, those with tired muscles or injuries can get the treatment they so badly deserve. These springs are the perfect place for travelers to detox, get pain relief, and relax. Enjoy beer, wine, frozen drinks, and non-alcoholic beverages while you soak.


There is something about soaking in hot springs while surrounded by mountains that is simply unforgettable. For those visiting Purgatory, I’d highly recommend taking a soak in the hot springs. It’s not every day one can take a therapeutic soak in natural mineral waters in such a surreal destination as Durango, a place with a vibrant history.

Would I Come Back to Purgatory/Durango?

I will 100% be coming back to Purgatory. It’s not just the ski area that is so amazing, but the destination as well. The San Juan Mountains are truly a sight to behold and the town of Durango is a sublime place to visit. With fantastic food and welcoming people, this is one of the hidden gems of this incredible state. I loved the skiing, the hot springs, and the atmosphere of Durango.


For those who have never skied Purgatory, I’m telling you it’s worth the flight or drive.

~Special Thanks~

A special thanks to Purgatory Resort and Treehouse Communications for making this happen. It is experiences such as these that help others see there are opportunities in places where most do not seem to go. Experiencing the San Juan Mountains, Purgatory, and Durango is something I will never forget.

#DoWhatYouBelieve

Here at Outdoor Master, we want to help you #DoWhatYouBelieve. This trip to Purgatory Resort is simply an example of what is possible when you put your mind to something. Do you love skiing and snowboarding? Are you a surfer or skateboarder? Do you like to bike? We want to help you pursue your passions in the outdoors. We are experts, enthusiasts, and people just like you. Follow us on Instagram, drop us a line, and we’ll get right back to you.

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